Over the last few years, retro point-and-shoot cameras have been seeing a resurgence of interest. There are tons of them out there, so here are some things to consider when shopping.

The point-and-shoot market was absolutely smashing it in the ’90s and early 2000s. There were tons of them made by every manufacturer. From film, to CCD, to MOS and CMOS, P&S cameras were constantly being iterated on until smartphones took over.

Retro point-and-shoot cameras: Film vs. CCD vs. CMOS

When it comes to retro point-and-shoot cameras, there are a ton of options to sift through. First and foremost, do you want film or digital? There are definite advantages to both, and drawbacks to both as well. Inside of that, there are arguments for and against CMOS and CCD sensor digital cameras.

Film point-and-shoot cameras

The debate between film and digital will rage on for a while yet. However, this post is about retro point-and-shoot cameras. When it comes to film, you get some advantages. 35mm is, by definition, “full-frame”. A 35mm point-and-shoot enjoys some of those benefits.

If you can find a camera like the Olympus XA with manual focus, some amount of control, and a fast lens, you can get a lot out of these benefits. From bokeh, to the great dynamic range of color negative film, to the awesome aesthetic of slide film, these are all great things. Feeling black and white? Pop in your favorite black and white film and have at it!

On the flip side, there are some negatives. Film can be costly and time-consuming. You have to buy it, pay for processing, and invest the time for processing (even if you do it yourself). In addition to that, the best retro point-and-shoot 35mm cameras are getting expensive and rare. Many of the less desirable cameras offer very little control and slow zoom lenses of varying quality. However, some (like my IQZoom) will surprise you!

APS Film

As a quick note, I’d avoid any retro point-and-shoot APS film cameras. While many of the designs were really cool, APS film is getting more impossible to find every day. Unless you’re just wanting a shelf piece or want to use only questionable expired film, avoid APS.

Digital point-and-shoot cameras

When it comes to retro point-and-shoot digital cameras, there’s a lot to consider. Do you want a CCD sensor, or a more modern CMOS sensor? What sensor sizes should you get? What memory cards do the cameras use? These are all important things to keep in mind.

CCD Sensors

When it comes to CCD vs. CMOS, the debate is almost as fiery as film vs. digital. Many people believe CCD sensors render in a more film-like way. They do have other advantages as well. Many CCD sensors were capable of shooting without rolling shutter, due to the way they function. They also seem to handle highlights better than CMOS.

However, many CCD P&S cameras had terrible video specs. These cameras also died out before a lot of the tech we enjoy today came around. A few had some tech like decent IBIS. Some, like my Canon PowerShot G11, had good lens IS. However, the ones with tech like EVF’s really show their age. The screens on the older ones are also pretty rough to use. Not deal-breakers by any means, but something to keep in mind.

CMOS Sensors

By the 2010s, CMOS sensors started to take over the photography world. These more modern sensors are what we still use today. They handle shadow recovery better. They tend to do better at higher ISO’s than CCD sensors. You get more modern displays with these cameras. Some of them even have a higher dynamic range, like the Sony RX100.

On the downside, these render pretty modern-looking images. The lower-end retro point-and-shoot CMOS cameras aren’t any better than smartphones, aside from having better ergonomics. They don’t really deliver the retro vibes as well in many cases. Of course, there are exceptions like the mentioned RX100, some early Fuji EXR and X-trans cameras, etc. Of course, it makes sense that a 10-year-old camera wouldn’t look as retro as a nearly 20-year-old camera.

Sensor Sizes

Another thing to consider with retro point-and-shoot digital cameras is sensor sizes. Common sizes are 1/2.5″, 1/1.8″ or 1/1.7″, 2/3″, and 1″ sensors. These numbers are confusing, but I’ve listed them in order from smallest to largest.

As a rule of thumb, the larger you go the better. You get more control over the depth of field. Usually, high ISO performance and dynamic range are better with larger sensors as well. However, larger sensors mean bigger lenses and you usually give up some zoom range or compact size in exchange for those sensors.

Memory

Lastly, memory cards are a concern with retro point-and-shoot digital cameras. Brands like Fuji, Olympus, and Sony often used proprietary memory cards. These cards can now be difficult to find and expensive. In some cases it may prove impossible to find a new card, forcing you to purchase used ones. CF cards and SD cards are both still readily available and affordable.

Retro point-and-shoot cameras: Size

Retro point-and-shoot cameras come in all sizes and shapes. From pocketable cameras like my Samsung Maxima 105GL and Canon PowerShot S50, to mid-size cameras like my PowerShot G5, to superzoom beasts like the Fuji Finepix S-line cameras: retro point-and-shoots cover a broad range.

Usually, if you want a massive zoom range, the camera will be larger and have a smaller sensor if digital. If you want compact, it’ll either be a fixed lens, a slow zoom, or some combination of these with the smaller sensor if digital.

The cameras like my G11 fit right in the middle. It’ll fit in a cargo or jacket pocket, covers the 28-120mm focal lengths, and is decent on light with an f/2.8-4.5 max aperture. It’s also got a mid-size sensor at 1/1.7″. On the other side is a camera like the Olympus XA. It’s a full-frame 35mm film camera with a fixed 35mm f/2.8 lens, and it’s absolutely compact.

How do you want to use a retro point-and-shoot?

Ultimately it all comes down to how you intend to use your retro point-and-shoot camera. Do you want to use it for everyday life situations? Do you want a lean, mean, street photography machine? Or are you after a versatile camera that can tackle it all?

It could be that you are just after a particular look and a 5-megapixel CCD camera is all you need to accomplish that. Alternatively, if you want to shoot film but don’t want to faff around with lenses and everything, a retro point-and-shoot camera could do the trick.

Currently, many of the less remarkable cameras are pretty obtainable. My solution was to just buy one whenever I found a deal! I now have the IQZoom or my childhood Samsung when I want a film compact camera. I also picked up the 3 PowerShot cameras for less than the cost of a pro-pack of Portra.

In the end, just have fun!

In the end, these retro point-and-shoot cameras are just super fun to own and collect! I’ve found myself really loving the experience. Having an actual camera on me at all times has been great. I’ve gotten a lot of photos I wouldn’t have otherwise, as I’m not a big fan of using my phone.

When it comes down to it, though, if I had to pick just one of my compact cameras, I’d probably pick my PowerShot G11. It’s really in the middle of everything. It’s digital, but still a CCD sensor. The sensor is 10 megapixels, which can handle any printing I’d want to do with it. It’s got good ergos, but is still pocketable. It also offers more control than my film point-and-shoots.

Luckily, I don’t have to choose! I love using them all for different reasons. The S50 has a great feel and slips into pockets like it isn’t there. I love the look of the photos from it and the G5. The film cameras are great when I want to shoot film and not be bothered by settings. After all, it’s about fun and enjoyment, and retro point-and-shoot cameras deliver that!