Push processing film is a topic that can cause some confusion for new photographers. The waters around pushing color film seem to get muddied online as well. For this week’s Film Friday, I wanted to try to clear that up a bit.

At its base, push processing is just developing film more. It can be done either by using higher developing temperatures, or more time in the developer. Let’s dive into why you might want to try pushing your color film.

Why try pushing color film?

Pushing color film
Cinestill 50D pushed +1

Pushing color film can be quite useful for a multitude of reasons. Ever shoot an 800 iso film, then load in some 400 film and forget to change your meter setting? I have. Push processing by one stop can save that roll of film and give you good results.

Cinestill 50D pushed +1

I’ve also been in a scenario where I preloaded Portra 400 before going on vacation. I decided after arriving that I wanted the versatility to shoot family moments indoors as well. Pushing my film by a stop to 800 gave me the ability to use faster shutter speeds indoors. Similarly, on that same trip, I shot a roll of Cinestill 50D rated at 100 ISO in order to give me more chances to take handheld photos.

Pushing color film
Fuji C200 pushed +1

Perhaps you have some Portra 400 or Ultramax 400 and don’t want to spend the money on Portra 800. Pushing one of these to 800 could be a decent substitute. Portra 400 in particular pushes well. It retains a quite low grain and still looks great at 800. Less expensive films tend to be more drastically altered by push processing, however. Keep that in mind.

Experimentation and creative effects are also good reasons to try pushing color film. When pushing color film, you will see increased contrast and saturation. Some films will color shift to some degree and get grainier as well. You can have a little more creative control over that roll of film with push processing.

How to prepare for pushing color film

There are a few things you need to know in advance before you try pushing your film. The first thing is that a “stop” is a doubling or halving of your exposure. So pushing a 100 ISO film to a 200 ISO film is a +1 stop push. Likewise, pushing a 400 ISO film to 1600 ISO is a +2 stop push.

Next, once you decide to push a roll, you’re stuck with that decision. Let’s say you loaded a roll of Portra 400, set your meter to 800 ISO, and started using that roll of film. You can’t get halfway through and change your mind and go back. The whole roll will be developed either for normal or push processing.

pushing color film
Portra 400 pushed +1

Lastly, don’t forget to set your meter and notate your actions. If your camera reads DXO codes, make sure you’re able to override them with the new ISO rating that you’re giving the film. Also, make sure that you mark the roll of film +1 for a one stop push, +2 for a two stop push, etc. Your lab will only be able to accommodate you well if they know what is what! (Even if you home develop, it’s a good habit to have.)

Lighting is another thing to keep in mind. Pushing film will increase its contrast. Typically you’ll notice brighter mid-tones and highlights, but your shadows will stay about the same. Flat and even lighting tends to look better on pushed film than in extremely contrasty light.

How to push process color film

This is the easy part. If you use a preferred lab, just make sure your film is marked appropriately and that you request push processing when you drop it off. A trusted lab will know how to push process your film based on how many stops you ask for and they’ll take care of you.

If you develop yourself, it’s still pretty easy. Most C-41 color developing kits come with directions that list push processing times. C-41 being standardized makes it simple. Three minutes and 30 seconds for normal processing at 102F/20C is the standard. Pushing by one stop bumps that up to about four and a half minutes. Going further adds more time and/or temperature, of course.

Final thoughts

Portra 400 pushed +1
Fuji C200 pushed +1

Pushing color film can be a helpful tool to add to your arsenal. It allows you to get some added shutter speed in low light. It can save an accidentally underexposed roll of film (if you know how much it was underexposed). It’s also a way to give you some creative input on how the film looks.

In the end, understanding when and why you would want to push your film can expand your options. This holds even more true in black and white film. We’ll have to discuss that in a separate post in the future, though. Hopefully, this little write-up helped you to understand the process, and you can get out there and try pushing your favorite roll of color film!